'Threads and borders - Indonesia & Timor Leste' is at https://threadsandborderstwo.blogspot.com/

Donnerstag, 9. Oktober 2014

A huge competitive advantage for the garment industry of Bangladesh

  
Interview with Rob Wayss, Executive Director, Bangladesh Operations, the Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh  by Marianne Scholte  

Dhaka, 23 September 2014

The Accord on Fire and Building Safety in Bangladesh has been criticized for closing readymade garment (RMG) factories in Bangladesh, failing to provide finance for necessary repairs and threatening the livelihoods of garment workers. Responding to these criticisms, Rob Wayss, the Executive Director of the Accord’s Bangladesh Operations, asserts that, rather than being a threat, the work of the Accord is a tremendous opportunity for the industry and for its workers and labor unions.

Scholte: How are the inspections 
coming along?  
Wayss: We just finished our initial inspections a week and a half ago. We inspected around 1100 factories, and we still have about 300 to deal with – common facilities with the Alliance. It has been a heavy schedule of inspections: we have been going non-stop for eight months.
Scholte: Of those 1100 initial inspections, how many factories had to be shut down, and of the ones that had to be shut down, how many have been reopened?
Wayss: We requested the government to evacuate 17 of the buildings we inspected. Nine were immediately reopened after some aggressive weight removal and load management measures – they had to remove stock, drain water tanks, partially or fully evacuate floors, etc. 
We had another four where the building had to be completely evacuated and it will never reopen. But those factory owners were able to immediately relocate all of the workers and all the production to other facilities they have.
And then we have four that were closed and remain closed. In two of those, the remediation, including the remediation financing discussions, are underway and we are hopeful that they will reopen. And then there are two tough cases where it remains to be seen whether the factory will reopen or not. In one of these cases, the factory owner filed a lawsuit against the Ministry of Labour and Employment Review Panel, of which the Accord is a defendant.
Scholte: Four out of 1100 factories inspected where the workers are presently not working. That is a relatively small number. But what about wages for workers in the closed firms?
Wayss: We are getting a fair amount of grief on the wage issue, but the problem has been substantially overstated. We have only a couple cases where the workers have not been properly paid. Under Article 13 of the Accord, the brands are required to make sure that the factory owner is paying wages during factory closures or partial closures due to our inspections. We are working with the brands, the owners and the labor colleagues now to determine to what extent the Accord has been violated, and we will work to rectify found violations.
Scholte: Mr. Wayss, you have been working in Bangladesh for a long time, at least since 2005...
Wayss: Yes, I was here for four years as the Solidarity Center, AFL-CIO Country Director, and then I came back for two years with the International Labour Organization (ILO).
Scholte: So you have been observing the readymade garment (RMG) sector in this country for a long time. How do you view developments now in this post-Rana Plaza period, including the work of the Accord and the Alliance? What does all this mean for the future of the Bangladesh garment industry?
Wayss: I see it as a tremendous opportunity for the garment industry of Bangladesh. The Bangladeshi suppliers are receiving a huge advantage over their competitors in the different countries that are producing readymade garments and vying for the global market. The reasons for this are terrible, but they are receiving from the Accord signatories a five-year commitment to all of the provisions in the Accord: a two-year commitment to volume; factory safety inspections by credible, independent engineers; technical and financial support to fix the problems; verification that these problems have been fixed; plus support to have improved structures in place at the factory level to monitor safety and health – health and safety committees that actually function.
And in the process, if they do what they need to do, they will be able to advertise to the world and credibly demonstrate that they have made their factories safe and are keeping them safe and that is a tremendous advantage to them. Of course there will also be public disclosure if they don’t fix things, but in most cases we are finding that they are fixing things. And again, a lot of this is being supported either financially or technically.
In addition, they are getting political and financial support, particularly from the European Union, the bilateral missions in North America and from the Japanese. Many of these governments are providing support for RMG safety and compliance programs, the biggest project of course being the one with the ILO and the Ministry of Labour and Employment. So it is a tremendous opportunity and it would be a real shame if the industry and the labor movement here don’t take advantage of this.
Scholte: So what is your reading of the entrepreneurs in general and BGMEA (Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association)? There has been some public complaining in the media, and one would expect resistance because someone else is coming in and telling them what to do…. but are many of them actually seeing this as an opportunity?
Wayss: Oh yes, most of the factories are working to fix their factories based on the inspections and doing so in a good faith manner. For instance, of the 1100+ factories, we did not have a single factory where there was any resistance whatsoever to our inspectors getting into the factory. Not a single case.
As for BGMEA, we have a good relationship with them. We speak with their elected leadership and their engineering and compliance teams every day. We have a monthly bilateral meeting with them, where they have an opportunity to raise any issues that they want with us. Notwithstanding some of the public commentary and media stories, I assess that our relationship with BGMEA is strong.
Scholte: What about the Bangladeshi labor unions in the RMG sector?
Wayss: The Bangladeshi labor unions have a responsibility here. The IndustriAll affiliates are signatories to the Accord and have obligations to support the Accord, in terms of outreach to workers who are members of or in contact with the different IndustriALL RMG federations. And they also have an opportunity as labor unions to help make factories safe, which is obviously a central element of the work that labor unions have historically done.
We are working closely with 14 labor union federations. Six or so of them are very active; the others are less active, but we are working with all 14 to make sure that their elected officials, their resource people and their active members understand the Accord well and understand how the inspections work, understand what the reports look like.
Scholte: Who has access to these reports?
Wayss: Every single report was issued simultaneously to the factory owner, the Accord brands that are in that particular factory and the IndustriALL Bangladesh Council members. In those few factories where we had information that there was a union, the factory-level union representatives also received a copy of the report.
Scholte: So the unions can tie the brands to their supplier factories?
Wayss: The public listing of Accord supplier factories (on our website) discloses how many Accord brands are in a factory, but not which ones, but the IndustriALL unions receive group correspondence related to inspections and inspection reports where they would be able to determine which brands are producing in a particular factory.
Scholte: And you are working with the unions in the factories where IndustriALL has a factory-level union?
Wayss: We are working with IndustriAll unions to do outreach with workers in all the factories. The 14 federations don’t have registered factory-level unions in many factories, but in almost all of them they have individual members or contacts. So, the IndustriALL affiliates are arranging off-site meetings with workers, in the evenings or on the weekends. Sometimes there are a dozen people, sometimes three dozen. But we would like to have at least a small group of workers in each Accord-inspected factory that have a copy of the report and the CAP (corrective action plan) and have sat down and gone through these with someone who understands them.
We are getting contact information on the workers that the IndustriALL colleagues are speaking with, so that in our follow up we can make sure that the things that need to get fixed actually get fixed. We contact workers in the factory, just like we contact the factory owner and the brands, but also expect them to contact us proactively as well. We are setting up this data base of contacts and communication system.
And also we are training IndustriALL staff on the work of health and safety committees. We will be setting up safety and health monitoring systems at the factory level as we move into the next phase.
Scholte: There are no health and safety committees in the factories yet, right? You are still waiting for the implementation rules from the government.
Wayss: Exactly. This is something the Accord is engaged in intensively now, working with the Government of Bangladesh and the ILO to get the rules published and making sure that people are prepared as we enter the early part of 2015, when the election of the worker representatives on the health and safety committees needs to begin.
Scholte: Ultimately the buyers are responsible to ensure that this happens in their supplier factories, right?
Wayss: We hope that ultimately it is going to be the government. The election of health and safety committees is mandated by the government (in the Labour Act). But the Accord will have, I believe, a significant oversight role to make sure that the elections are credible and to deal with any irregularity in the elections, which I think people have to expect. I mean history has shown in the EPZs (export processing zones), in particular, that when committees were elected, there were some efforts to prevent certain people from being nominated or cases where workers that the factory owners may not have wanted on the committee were terminated. These are things that we have to anticipate.
Scholte: How are you going to exercise this oversight?
Wayss: The first phase will be a massive outreach program. We are creating a video informing managers and workers in the garment factories how the nomination and election procedures will work, what they need to think about when they determine whether they want to be on the committee or who they want to vote for on the committee. We will supplement the video with outreach events with workers and with factory management representatives to prepare for the elections. We will seek the support of the brand and labor signatories to support and assist with this outreach.
The second phase will be the oversight of the elections. How extensive that oversight is going to be I think is largely going to be determined by the rules, but regardless of what the rules are, our oversight is going to be significant. The Accord will be required to intervene in cases of irregularities like those we spoke about. But we will also rely on our brands if there are problems with the elections in factories that are producing their products. In that case, Article 17 of the Accord requires them to intervene with the factory owners as well.
Scholte: There is a potential conflict here, right? Some of the suppliers will not want this and the buyers…
Wayss: It is not a choice. The health and safety committees are required under the law and under the Accord. If there is a union, the union appoints the worker representatives; if there is no union, there has to be an election and those are requirements…
Scholte: There are a lot of requirements in this country…
Wayss: Sure, sure, but that is the difference between the Accord and some of the other things in the past: the Accord will be executed and is enforceable.
Scholte: So what happens in the case of non-compliance if there are some supplier firms that drag their feet or manipulate the process, and I imagine there are going to be some, right? What if you ultimately can’t solve the problems?
Wayss: Well, ultimately we can solve them, because if the supplier is unwilling to meet the requirements of the Accord, then the brand at that point would be required to sever their business relations with that factory, and any other brands or retailers that are signatories are prohibited from sourcing there. And we have some cases where we are getting close to that.
We make sincere, vigorous, good faith efforts to try and bring the factories into compliance. If it is a matter of technical support, we make our engineers available to them; if it is a matter of financial support, we work with them and the brands, because the brands have obligations to provide support if the suppliers need financial support for their remediation. We make a good faith effort, but the good faith effort has to be reciprocated with action and if they continually don’t do it, then the brands are required to sever their business relations with the factory and this information will be disclosed publicly on our website. But that is a last resort.
Scholte: What are the issues involved in these cases where you are getting close to severing business ties?
Wayss: Some were inspections that had very serious findings. Although we didn’t ask the government to evacuate the building, we did require the factory owner to take some very, very aggressive immediate action. And we have a few cases where the factory owners have taken some of those immediate aggressive actions, but haven’t been following through on other things. Some of them have not been addressing things at all for several months. So we are getting to the point where we are formally communicating very real threats that will be followed through.
Scholte: So how many factories does this involve?
Wayss: There are about 110 cases where significant, aggressive measures are required. But only a handful are in real danger of having their business relations with Accord brands severed.
Scholte: What about financing? If they have to do things quickly, is financing the big issue here?
Wayss: Yes, in some factories it is. We have taken a fair amount of criticism from local industry in particular, but also from the local and international media, that the Accord, but the Accord brands are not meeting their obligations as it relates to supporting the remediation financially.
So, in July we introduced a standard operating procedure, whereby the Accord case handlers – and our international staff participate in this as well – are facilitating a telephone call or face to face meeting with the lead brand in each factory together with the factory owner or the factory owner’s representative. Before Brad Loewen, the Accord’s Chief Inspector, will approve a CAP and finalize it, we need to receive confirmation from the brand and the factory owner that they have had the conversation on financing and that the finances are there. This is then disclosed on our website – not which brand is providing what, but that financing has been discussed and arranged. For our own internal purposes, we are collecting information on the composition of the different kinds of support in each factory.
Scholte: There has been a lot of confusion about this point because Clean Clothes and the Worker Rights Consortium went around saying that the brands were obligated to pay and that is not what the Accord says, the Accord says the brands have to ensure…
Wayss: Clean Clothes and the Worker Rights Consortium didn’t say that the brands were obligated to pay. They said that the brands were obligated to support the remediation financially. The message has never been that the brands have to pay, and we have made that very clear. Certain parties here in country told people, “Oh don’t worry about it, because the brands have to pay for everything.”  
We have done programs now with about 4000 supplier representatives, and we have explained Article 22 of the Accord in great detail. And the first point we made and we say it three times: “This provision does not mean that the brands are going to pay for everything. The expectation is that you as the factory owner or you as the building owner are going to pay to repair your building. That being said, if you as the factory owner do not have the resources or do not have access to the resources to pay for the remediation within the timelines in the CAP, the brands that are in your factory, that are signatories to the Accord, are obligated to work with you to find a package of support and financing for the remediation, so that the remediation can take place within the timelines in the CAP.” So they are obligated and it is happening.
Scholte: But still it is a conflictual discussion, right? The suppliers are going to say we don’t have the funds…
Wayss: Yes, it is a negotiation between the brands and their suppliers. But the brands generally have a decent idea about the condition of the supplier. They will do a little bit of their own research and consult with others to try and get as clear a picture of the financial situation of the factory owner as possible. And then the brands, quite frankly, are going to bargain with them; the suppliers might be expected to say that they don’t have the money. There are cases where the factory owners do need support. And we are working with the brands and the factory owners to make sure that in those cases the obligations under the Accord are met.
Scholte: But there are some indications that some of your brands are simply pulling out. The Steering Committee minutes of 7 August 2014, for example, says some brands are exiting factories for non-valid reasons in violation of Article 23 which requires them to maintain order volume for two years. How extensive is this problem and what are you doing to address it?
Wayss: The Accord and Steering Committee are currently researching allegations of/the extent of "exiting" and are obtaining information on reasons in those cases where we find any anomalies. This effort/work is ongoing.
Scholte: Aren’t there also talks with the IFC (International Finance Corporation)?
Wayss: Yes, the IFC has established a guaranteed loan fund and a number of our brands are working with the IFC to set these up. The loan is in a hard currency, euro or US dollar; the interest rates are quite low in comparison to what would be otherwise available and the repayment period is up to three years. The IFC puts up the money, makes the arrangement with the local agent bank and organizes the contract between the bank and the supplier that wants to access the money. The brand, based on the remediation plan or the CAP, informs the IFC that a particular supplier is permitted to access the guaranteed loan instrument they have set up and specifies the amount of the loan to be extended.
Scholte: Have any loans been disbursed?
Wayss: Only one so far, VF Corporation – not an Accord brand. But a number of our brands have approached IFC to set up these loans and are in the process.
Scholte: Last question: Are you working at all with government labor inspectors?
Wayss: To some extent, yes. Brad works closely with the civil defense and fire service and with the Labour Ministry, the Inspector General and his team. And as we get into the middle stages of the Accord now, he will be offering support to labor inspectors and civil defense and fire service people in terms of accompanying our inspectors, training opportunities. The primary thrust of that type of support, however, is through the ILO project with the Ministry of Labour and Employment.
We also work very closely with the Inspector General, particularly on the Review Panel cases, of course, but we are often requesting the support of the Inspector General on the immediate action cases, because these issues that we are finding in our inspections are also violations of the labor requirements.
Scholte: Mr. Wayss, thank you very much for your time.
Wayss: My pleasure.
 ©Threads and borders.All rights reserved. www.threadsandborders.blogspot.de

Keine Kommentare:

Kommentar veröffentlichen